tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-33888330861107069552024-02-07T20:03:34.663-08:00NW Flames of WarA hobby blog for Flames of War in the Pacific NorthWest.Unknownnoreply@blogger.comBlogger8125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3388833086110706955.post-75429168323085218672013-10-02T23:06:00.000-07:002013-10-02T23:06:33.048-07:00Northwest Invasion II - 1,675-point Mid-war tournament on October 26th, 2013 at Guardian Games<div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
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On October 26th 2013, players from all over the northwest will be descending on Portland, OR for a club challenge across state lines! Local players will be defending their territory against all comers. Pairings will be done by team, so you get a chance to play folks you don't normally play...and you won't have to play the folks you rode with.<br />
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Not a competitive player? No problem...this is an event for the fun of it. Prizes will be done by raffle, so everybody has a shot at the loot! Every player gets one entry into the prize drawings, with bonus entries for Best Overall, Tourney Aces (best score per team), Best Painted, and Best Sportsman.<br />
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An event trophy is given to the highest-scoring team to keep until the next Invasion. For now, it resides in Portland. Next time...who knows.
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<b>The Venue</b><br />
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<a href="http://www.ggportland.com/">Guardian Games</a><br />
345 SE Taylor St<br />
Portland, OR 97214<br />
(503) 238-4000<br />
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<b>Forum Topics</b><br />
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Details are on a couple forums...<br />
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<a href="http://www.warsound.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=667" target="_blank">Warsound topic</a><br />
<a href="http://www.ordofanaticus.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=18890" target="_blank">Ordo Fanaticus topic</a></div>
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<b>Game Schedule</b><br />
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9:30-10:00 Event registration<br />
10:00-10;15 Announcements and army pairings<br />
10:15-12:30 Round 1<br />
12:30-1:30 Lunchtime!<br />
1:30-3:45 Round 2<br />
4:00-6:15 Round 3<br />
6:30 Prizes and Awards<br />
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<b>Need to sign up or get more info?</b><br />
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For the Lacey team or Seattle area: <b>flamesofwarorganizer@hotmail.com</b><br />
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For the Oregon team, or if you are coming from other areas (Salem, Vancouver BC, Idaho, etc) and trying to find a team: <b>pdxwar@gmail.com</b><br />
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0345 Southeast Taylor Street, Portland, OR 97214, USA45.515107099999987 -122.662226145.515063599999991 -122.6623051 45.515150599999984 -122.6621471tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3388833086110706955.post-18523107778944181652013-09-19T02:55:00.000-07:002014-02-21T10:15:18.341-08:00Wargame Airbrushing 01: multi-purpose rigs<div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
To get an airbrush rig on the table top, I got to combine two of the great things in life... modelling, and home improvement stores. For this particular build, I had a few criteria: keep it multi-purpose, portable, and suitable to long painting sessions (my preferences), and keep it quiet (my wife's preference).</div>
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This particular setup has a few bells and whistles that are not required for basic airbrushing...I will make note of those optional components when they come up. The order I list them is the order I connect them in the final rig.<br />
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<b>Component 1: Air Supply</b><br />
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<b><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwyWYeS6Gxu00U3jhD3QPhzNmL0VlPwHiuF7fzzpOYtSXAmWXDQIAUf7Lt1_wJ6CUL_CsYM-q1150oW3k0dg0am0z887Tt8wMFkzUna-fMrrOPcymL267cUshnqxAcfWqPZM1oFPDIRe96/s1600/craftsman+compressor.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwyWYeS6Gxu00U3jhD3QPhzNmL0VlPwHiuF7fzzpOYtSXAmWXDQIAUf7Lt1_wJ6CUL_CsYM-q1150oW3k0dg0am0z887Tt8wMFkzUna-fMrrOPcymL267cUshnqxAcfWqPZM1oFPDIRe96/s200/craftsman+compressor.jpg" height="200" width="200" /></a></b></div>
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There are airbrush compressors available, but I went with a construction model for two reasons: the air reservoir means it only runs occasionally, and I can use it to run pneumatic tools for other hobby projects. The one I got has a three-gallon tank built in, and runs at 125psi, so I can run my airbrush with the compressor turned off for about 25 minutes before the compressor needs to get turned back on to re-pressurize the tank.<br />
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Price-wise, a good hobby compressor will cost about the same, but you are trading smaller size and quieter operation with the hobby compressor for the ability to connect your compressor to pneumatic tools and shoot nails across the garage. Your call.***<br />
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Craftsman 3-gallon compressor, $99 at Sears </div>
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<b>Component 2: Air hose/adapter</b><br />
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<b><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXGUMLrLhqaUcs_r7ORyBCJCP8MwQgGrw4fCk3umgMLiSMd4BOkLpRXg-NXsYVJz9qshMIgX8nq3a_B4f3YXChYzRXrzXOE5fNVcM_v46gNprTjSP78hNXl5B-AFmcuUIzNu6DefQJCJKu/s1600/air+hose.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXGUMLrLhqaUcs_r7ORyBCJCP8MwQgGrw4fCk3umgMLiSMd4BOkLpRXg-NXsYVJz9qshMIgX8nq3a_B4f3YXChYzRXrzXOE5fNVcM_v46gNprTjSP78hNXl5B-AFmcuUIzNu6DefQJCJKu/s200/air+hose.jpg" height="200" width="200" /></a></b></div>
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Most airbrushes come with an air hose, but in this build, I needed an extra one to run from the compressor to the external tank. I went ahead and got a 3/8" x 50' polyurethane air hose, for when I wanted to use the compressor for construction projects, and so I could park the compressor in a closet down the hall and just let it run whenever it wanted to if The Wife is in the house.<br />
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The 3/8" refers to the diameter of the hose, 50' is the length, and the polyurethane is a coating that keeps the hose from marking stuff up when it drags across them. You can get hoses a lot cheaper if you go with a PVC hose, about $10 or less for a 25-foot hose. Note: the 3/8" size is different from the 1/4" size of the connector fitting...which is the brass piece that screws into other pieces. This hose is a 3/8" hose with 1/4" NPT fittings. Clear as mud? The helpful folks at wherever you are shopping can make sure everything connects.<br />
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Generic 3/8" x 50' polyurethane air hose, $23 at Lowe's.<br />
(optional) generic 1/4" NPT quick-coupler set, $6 at Lowe's </div>
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<b>(optional) Component 3: External Air Storage</b><br />
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<b><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkiK_H1RdASf5K-jGB1aziYZq6SbcBJvT7RaTHS_Z3it6qzKzm9k2FVcXQwDMgus0Br2FDcZKzCYrymtQTpNpQltqk9EvQ48exL7gwuSP1SatpWKNO1vUKdHcEJHG3n91CG8nnJcAZGeYx/s1600/craftsman+tank.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkiK_H1RdASf5K-jGB1aziYZq6SbcBJvT7RaTHS_Z3it6qzKzm9k2FVcXQwDMgus0Br2FDcZKzCYrymtQTpNpQltqk9EvQ48exL7gwuSP1SatpWKNO1vUKdHcEJHG3n91CG8nnJcAZGeYx/s200/craftsman+tank.jpg" height="135" width="200" /></a></b></div>
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To extend the amount of time between re-pressurization, and to make the setup easier to move around, I picked up an 11-gallon air tank; this lets me airbrush without lugging the compressor around, as I can fill it up and carry the tank to my worktable and entirely cut out compressor noise. Or, if I leave it hooked to the compressor, it lets me go over an hour between refills (a total of 13 gallons of air starting at 125PSI will last a good while!).<br />
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Note: as a money saver, in place of buying a compressor, you can also fill the tank up at most gas stations; some are free, so look around if your local station charges you to use the air station. It ends up costing you in the long run, if only from the cost of driving to the station, but in the short term, skipping the compressor can save a buck or two from the initial investment.<br />
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Craftsman 11-gallon air tank, $30 at Home Depot.</div>
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<b>Component 4: Regulation</b><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDvWK_LZgg1vXomePrMnu2EdH_H6Jki2SBN-1NXn8o9udkOT9gu_WI1xVEAkU9VLXAYG3X7vZA76hj5AQrIh-HyPoqp5dyTVkFBlkE7ab8_gjUFSci5JqGnEssoRoJqJdBdv3DGIrKTVD2/s1600/regulator.gif" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDvWK_LZgg1vXomePrMnu2EdH_H6Jki2SBN-1NXn8o9udkOT9gu_WI1xVEAkU9VLXAYG3X7vZA76hj5AQrIh-HyPoqp5dyTVkFBlkE7ab8_gjUFSci5JqGnEssoRoJqJdBdv3DGIrKTVD2/s200/regulator.gif" height="200" width="161" /></a></div>
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The compressor has a built-in regulator, but most of them aren't very precise at lower pressures, and we need more pressure control for airbrushing. You can adjust the air flow with the airbrush trigger if you have a double-action brush, but I find it less strain on the trigger finger to regulate the pressure before the brush and just max out the flow at the trigger, so all I am adjusting is the paint flow...which can also be somewhat adjusted at the brush, if you have a model with a pre-set handle.<br />
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If you get a construction-style regulator, <u>check the type</u>. Some of them just restrict the air flow instead of actually regulating the pressure; you want one that regulates. If you are not using the optional air hose, you can attach the regulator directly to the air tank.<br />
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Generic brand, $22 at Home Depot</div>
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<b>(optional) Component 5: Filter</b><br />
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<b><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzDYW6pAERDiW7x6CV6Zo9LzTmfcURB2i1JPQpPne_LhoJ1C8SS9x6dGsC9_GhVMCnWA5tdSKqguEq3OEwNIlQmWk1c58vRPs_QyziHuv1h_a1jwYESnxN6MiSh7Ix-OAaOkgNUr8ZPjwW/s1600/filter.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzDYW6pAERDiW7x6CV6Zo9LzTmfcURB2i1JPQpPne_LhoJ1C8SS9x6dGsC9_GhVMCnWA5tdSKqguEq3OEwNIlQmWk1c58vRPs_QyziHuv1h_a1jwYESnxN6MiSh7Ix-OAaOkgNUr8ZPjwW/s200/filter.jpg" height="200" width="200" /></a></b></div>
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The filter removes moisture from the air before it hits the airbrush. This is an optional step because unless you are doing high-quality stuff, you will likely not even notice. I did my filtering with Component 7 below, but if you go with a basic one like this you can screw it directly to your regulator with a coupler (not pictured, it is a common fitting).<br />
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Generic brand, $13 at Home Depot<br />
1/4" NPT Male/Male coupler, $2 at Home Depot</div>
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<b><b>Component </b>6: Airbrush and Hose</b><br />
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I'm not going to cover the choices here...there are roughly 2.3 bazillion articles on airbrush choices floating around the interwebs. I have been using an Iwata HP-C+ for about 8 years, and it's been rock-solid that entire time...it even survived a trip to Afghanistan with me.</div>
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<b><b>(optional) Component </b>7: Filter Grip</b><br />
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<b><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-eg12BvqwbnrWwsdDkq0FQqbl0KL63-OFijRuhSHysKZZdYjthSJWUN3XVzJjCnOv7T2WoauaHr4gnEzJEhKysaAB-8Ogymui-jNxz1OZuQ8mjTaLmF_1lCAnuQbn7RXcn5T0nNAr4-4F/s1600/filter+grip.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-eg12BvqwbnrWwsdDkq0FQqbl0KL63-OFijRuhSHysKZZdYjthSJWUN3XVzJjCnOv7T2WoauaHr4gnEzJEhKysaAB-8Ogymui-jNxz1OZuQ8mjTaLmF_1lCAnuQbn7RXcn5T0nNAr4-4F/s200/filter+grip.jpg" height="200" width="200" /></a></b></div>
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While a grip is optional, I <u>highly </u>recommend it, as it makes long airbrush sessions a lot less stressful on the hand. The grip screws into the airbrush where the air hose normally would, and gives you more to hold on to. If your hand comes stock with a Kung Fu Grip, you won't need this piece.<br />
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I added a quick-disconnect to mine, to save both time and wear on the plastic threads on the grip; one piece screws onto the grip, and one screws onto the Airbrush air hose.<br />
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I assume the other manufacturers make filter grips, but I am an Iwata guy, so I have not confirmed that fact. <br />
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Iwata Pistol Grip Filter, $22 at Dixie Art Supply<br />
(optional) Iwata <span class="style40"><span style="font-family: Arial;">Quick Disconnect, $13 at Dixie Art Supply</span></span> </div>
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<b><b>Component </b>8: Backdrop</b><br />
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You could build a portable spray booth so you can airbrush wherever you want in the house, but I went the easy route - and got a fan as a bonus. As my house does not have air conditioning, this is important for the week or two that we have "hot" weather each year.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7fOAqVxB83YTs4MUbIf3AmXXhhySo1X9zZuZvjDkapTCPvoMMkR0ITxkuRC5fVO4Q_xCShgoXgm1shE85vzAGuxgGh2XsnDb7IkVCYxYfIU31zKg9f5SAgwq9uCfYWVO61ZgXobQ22GOI/s1600/box+fan.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7fOAqVxB83YTs4MUbIf3AmXXhhySo1X9zZuZvjDkapTCPvoMMkR0ITxkuRC5fVO4Q_xCShgoXgm1shE85vzAGuxgGh2XsnDb7IkVCYxYfIU31zKg9f5SAgwq9uCfYWVO61ZgXobQ22GOI/s200/box+fan.jpg" height="200" width="200" /></a><u>Important</u>: check where the power cord plugs in before you buy the fan. Most of them plug into the middle of the back of the fan, but this is a no-go for an airbrush backdrop, as the "back" is the side we will be airbrushing on. Get one that plugs into the side or bottom, even if you have to spend an extra buck or two; this will prevent you from needing to poke a hole in the filter each time you replace it, and keep you from painting the power cord. Unless those things sound like fun to you, in which case go for it...I suppose you could paint the cord with the airbrushing equivalent of kill stripes.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLyvNXq3UCGkwiL-Lcr0d4LzJjL572ZTgktpD7WJQ2Xm_gFnju4MmaGGnhcAuqBgJvuael1sinySsI2NwVsC6Y8N58Sa-59mV9DfowbO3lK0LZ34LJlPz6eR-YrZewtdsUJN3c8KUn6tCH/s1600/pleated+air+filter.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLyvNXq3UCGkwiL-Lcr0d4LzJjL572ZTgktpD7WJQ2Xm_gFnju4MmaGGnhcAuqBgJvuael1sinySsI2NwVsC6Y8N58Sa-59mV9DfowbO3lK0LZ34LJlPz6eR-YrZewtdsUJN3c8KUn6tCH/s200/pleated+air+filter.jpg" height="200" width="200" /></a></div>
To use it, just set the fan in front of where you are going to be airbrushing, pointing so it blows the air away from you. Put a 20"x20" <b>pleated </b>air filter in front of the fan and turn it on, you are ready to roll. I tape mine in place, though, as I occasionally forget to grab it when I turn off the fan and air flow stops holding the filter in place, at which time the filter jumps at my freshly painted whatevers and any nearby open liquid containers. <br />
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Note: the "pleated" part is important; the filter needs to look like a
paper-towel-type materiel. Filters also come in fiberglass, which is
fine for dust but won't work as well for airbrushing. Cheap filters are fine, we don't need a micron filter or allergen reduction for this. I get them in 3-packs; they will last for months if you are only airbrushing, but I also spray paint in front of mine. It does a brilliant job of keeping overspray controlled, so I can prime stuff in the garage.<br />
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Generic 20" box fan, $21 at Target<br />
3-pack 20" pleated air filters, $8 at Home Depot</div>
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<b>That's it!</b><br />
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All told, the entire rig with all the bells and whistles would cost me about $250 at normal retail plus the cost of the airbrush. If you shop around, hit sales or go online, and go with basic versions of everything, you can do it for about $160, but I think it is worth the extra bucks for the quality and convenience of the upgrades.</div>
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*** legal note: I do not recommend you use your rig to shoot nails across a garage, or at anything, for that matter. That comment in Component 1 was a joke. It's not safe. Don't do it. Seriously.</div>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3388833086110706955.post-86741994068840433652013-09-18T15:19:00.000-07:002013-09-19T10:13:44.334-07:00Tank Spank 1 - September 21st, 2013 at PLU<div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
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Pacific Lutheran University in Tacoma, WA is hosting a <a href="http://gamerati.com/gamedays/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Gamerati Game Day</a> September 21st, 2013. <br />
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From noon to 5pm, I will be running Tank Spank 1...the trial run of a Late War all-tank Flames of War event. Tank Spank uses most of the Tank Aces campaign rules (as presented in Blood, Guts and Glory) with a few exceptions listed below.<br />
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There will be demos and pick-up games for Flames and other systems going on from 10am until midnight; card games upstairs, miniatures downstairs, not sure about the board games and traditional games...but they will be in the building!<br />
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<b>The Venue</b><br />
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<a href="http://www.plu.edu/scancenter/">Scandinavian Cultural Center at
Pacific Lutheran University, Room #100</a><br />
12180 South Park Avenue <br />
Tacoma, WA 98447-0003<br />
(253) 535-7532 </div>
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<b>No Extra Cost</b><br />
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There is no fee for Tank Spank 1, just your entry to Game Day. And, since
the info is buried in the Game Day site, be aware that your Game Day
ticket comes with a $20 voucher for Games & Gizmos (who will be there with hobby and wargaming supplies) or Northwest Sports Cards (who will be there with Magic and card supplies).</div>
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<b>Force Composition</b><br />
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Each player uses one army type throughout the event, but the composition can change when the point level changes. There are no required units...treat all mandatory selection as optional selections. Warrior teams are not allowed, nor are Tiger Ace skills.</div>
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<b>Game Schedule<br /> </b><br />
All games but the final rumble will use one of the three deployment types per Tank Aces, rolled before each battle. <br />
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Game one: 500 points <br />
Game two: 500 points<br />
-Tank Ace adds one Tier 1 skill<br />
Game three: 500 points<br />
Game four: 500 points<br />
-Tank Ace adds one Tier 2 skill<br />
Game five: 700 points<br />
Game six: 700 points<br />
-Tank Ace adds one Tier 3 skill<br />
Game seven: 900 points<br />
Final game: World of Tank Spank - only Tank Aces, add final skill, random activation order</div>
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<b>Tracking Progress</b><br />
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Experience points and kill markers will be tracked for achievement purposes, but will not be applied to your Tank Ace during the event.</div>
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<b>Achievements</b><br />
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Throughout the day, players can also accumulate achievements. For example:<br />
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<b>An Army Of One</b> - win a battle where only your Tank Ace scored any kills.<br />
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<b>Old School</b> - destroy a tank with an older version of it (for example, destroy a Sherman 76mm with a Sherman 75mm).<br />
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<b>Abe Jr.</b> - win a battle where you deployed in only one quarter while your opponent deployed in two quarters.<br />
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<b>Stalin Jr.</b> - win a battle where you started and ended the battle outnumbering your opponent.<br />
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<b>Spearhead </b>- win a battle where you deployed on a table side and ended the battle with all active tanks in the enemy deployment zone.<br />
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<b>Follow Me!</b> - win a battle where you fire at the enemy while only your Tank Ace is at short range.<br />
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<b>Sherpa </b>- awarded to the player who accumulated the highest victory point total.<br />
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The complete list will be available on the day of the event. If you have ideas for achievements to add, please email them to nwflamesofwar (at) gmail (dot) com or add them to the comment section below.</div>
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<b>Modelling</b><br />
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Tanks do not have to be fully painted, but please at least base coat them or prime them an appropriate color.</div>
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<b>Loaner Forces</b><br />
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I will have a couple loaner forces available if you do not have your own.</div>
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<b>Intro Games</b><br />
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If you are new to Flames of War, I will initially pair you up with other new players and help run you through the basic rules. </div>
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<b>Terrain</b><br />
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The tables will be set up ahead of time, but you are welcome to bring your own terrain to add some variation to the tables and to show off your cool stuffs.</div>
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<b>Other Local Venues</b><br />
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If you cannot make it to Games Day, but are in the area, Flames of War is also played at:<br />
Olympic Cards & Comics in Olympia on Thursday evenings at 6pm<br />
The Game Matrix in Tacoma on Sunday afternoons at 1pm<br />
The Panzer Depot in Kirkland on Thursday evenings at 6:30pm </div>
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<b>Questions?</b><br />
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If you have any questions, you can email me: nwflamesofwar(at)gmail(dot)com or post in the comment section below.</div>
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0Pacific Lutheran University, 12180 Park Avenue South, Tacoma, WA 98447, USA47.1464936 -122.4417973000000247.1410936 -122.45188230000002 47.1518936 -122.43171230000002tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3388833086110706955.post-29684547690103608002012-05-18T17:57:00.000-07:002013-01-05T23:03:49.617-08:00British 25pdr Battery Part Two: Crew and Gun Basing<div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
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Okay, now that the artillery dudes and their toys are done, it is time to get them on bases. It felt like the basing took longer than the painting did, but I wasn't keeping track of how long each step took, so who knows. I was going a little slower than usual, as I was trying out some new materials and techniques, but I like the overall effect, so I suppose it was worth the extra time. The target deadline is Memorial Day weekend, as a friend of mine needs them for a tournament at <a href="http://www.nhmgs.org/enfilade.html" target="_blank">Enfilade 2012</a>, so there is plenty of time...the associated vehicles (14 or so tractors and transports) are primed and basecoated, so won't take that long to knock out.<br />
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Anyway, let's finally get these guns on the tabletop!<br />
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<b>Step 1: Scoring the Bases</b><br />
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To give the filler I will be using a better surface to grip on, I used a hobby knife to score the surface of the bases. A few years back I bought a couple extra packs of bases, then sat down and scored them all while listening to TV. I have enough to do a full-size company and attachments, so when I get new figs I just add the bases they came with to the queue and replenish the stock of pre-scored bases when the supply gets low.<br />
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<i>Note: when something catches your attention during the mass-scoring process, stop moving the knife before you look up. Trust me on this one.</i><br />
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<b>Step 2: Plan the layout</b><br />
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Before I put them into the basing materiel, I set the crew up on a spare base to arrange them how I wanted. There are enough crew that come with it for five or six figs per base, and enough pose variety to mix it up, so I went ahead and set up all eight gun bases. To ensure variety, I started with the guns themselves; some left, some right, and some centered. Every gun has a rammer, so I did them next, shifting positions from base to base. Crew carrying rounds came next, then the rest were pretty much a grab bag. Officers tended to go in the corners facing downrange, and NCOs in the corners facing the crews (you can tell which ones are NCOs by finding the ones that are yelling at the other crews to get their hands out of their pockets).<br />
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You can spread the crew out more if you shift the gun further forward than I have it, but I keep the barrel even with the edge of the base...less likely to get damaged in transport, and it fits better in the Battlefoam trays I use.<br />
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<b>Step 3: Lay a caulking bead</b><br />
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I don't care for the appearance when the dudes look like they are standing on a pedestal on the base, so I build up the base and embed them in it. Normally I use Vinyl Spackle (by Dap, I get it at Lowe's), but I had a mostly-empty tube of brown latex caulking left over from a terrain project, so I figured I'd give it a shot. I loaded it in the caulking gun (although you can get it in a smaller squeeze tube) and laid a few beads on some test bases to see how much I needed for proper coverage. The pictured amount is about right, but your mileage might vary. I used a little more, as it is easy to wipe excess off and use it to fill gaps after the dudes are stuck in.<br />
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<i>Note 3: the Dap caulking I used, Premium Elastomeric Latex Sealant, comes with a 50-year guarantee...I wonder if that includes game performance? </i></div>
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<b>Step 4: Frosting</b><br />
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So, after watching a few reruns of Ace of Cakes, I figured out the basic technique, and proceeded to frost my bases. You are shooting for a layer roughly equal to the thickness of the pedestal the models come on, but that thickness varies...so you will need to adjust fire as you go along. A little too thick is easier to correct than too thin, but both can be fixed without much hassle. The caulking skins over fairly quickly, though, so I would recommend only doing one large or medium base at a time, but small bases go quickly enough that you can do a pair at once. Wipe any extra you take off, and whatever is stuck to your finger, into a pile on a piece of paper...we may need it later.</div>
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<b>Step 5: Lay the turntable</b><br />
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Set your frosted base directly beside your layout (remember step two?), then set the turntable into the caulk so it corresponds to the position of the wheels. Don't push it all the way into the caulk...about halfway is enough for a good bond without causing the caulking to well up between the spokes.</div>
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<b>Step 6: Firing team stand by</b><br />
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One at a time, transfer your dudes from the layout base to the corresponding place on the frosted base. Make sure to push them all the way down to the plastic, or they will have a little wiggle left from caulk that is too deep to cure. They should have a ridge that pops up all around them...if they do, then you have the right thickness. Not too much, but if the ridge isn't higher than the pedestal, you need to lay the caulking thicker next time. For this one, though, you can add some of the extra from Step 4 to raise the surrounding level up. It will probably be quicker and easier, though, to just pull the guys out, add more caulking, them put them back in.<br />
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<b>Step 7: Smoothing</b><br />
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Time to get rid of the ridge of caulking around the crew that popped up in Step 6. I use a sculpting tool, but I used to use an old brush, and can't tell a difference in results. The thing to remember is that the caulk will stick to your tool, so use smoothing motions to spread the ridge slightly onto the figure base and blend it with the surrounding caulk. Also make sure the caulking is spread all the way to the edge of the bevel on the base; notice the difference between the bottom left edge of the Step 6 and Step 7 pictures? Seven gets it right. Also, where there is space, make the surface a little uneven...even if your final base is going to be completely covered with flocking, some variation looks more natural.</div>
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<b>Step 8: Test Fire</b><br />
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This is optional, but it is a good idea to set one of the artillery
pieces onto the base to make sure the guys all fit properly. Lay it on
gently, and it will come off without sticking. If you need to
reposition guys, you can do so; pull them out of the caulk, smooth the
hole over, then push them back in.</div>
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<b>Step 9: Repeat</b><br />
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...the same process for your command teams, observers, and staff team. Leave the table, stool, and seated radio operator off the staff team, though...those go on later, as they don't have pedestals and it would be a pain to flock around them anyway.<br />
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While there is no requirement for what goes on the small bases to represent the different team types, I recommend you have a scheme that is easy to explain to an opponent. For example, my observers are the only ones that have a pair of binoculars, the section commanders have standing riflemen, and the battery commander is reaching for the radio mike (pictured at right).</div>
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<b>Step 10: Dirty choices</b><br />
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At this point, I needed to decide which type of dirt I was going to use. On the left is Brown Fine Ballast by Woodland Scenics. I use this a lot for 28mm figures, as it gives a sence of depth to the flat surface, but at 15mm it is close to seeming a little off-scale. I have some 15mm teams based with this, but I decided to go with something I hadn't used before. I'll take the door on the right, Monte. <br />
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<b>Step 11: Affixing the dirt</b><br />
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Going for a dirty rather than rocky base, I picked up a bag of <a href="http://www.tscustomtrees.com/servlet/the-114/Artificial-Soil-dsh-Cascade-Brown/Detail" target="_blank">Cascade Brown Artificial Soil</a>. To glue it down, I went with Gorilla Waterproof Wood Glue. It is pretty thick stuff, so I thinned it down with a detensioner mix; the surface tension on wood glue is pretty high, which means it will bead up on a smooth surface, so I used Surface Tension Breaker mixed with water to make it go on more like paint. A drop of liquid dishwashing detergent will break the surface tension the same way.<br />
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Applying the dirt is pretty straightforward: paint on the glue, sprinkle the dirt on until the no glue is showing, then let it dry. At this point, with most materials, I would turn it over and tap the base to get the excess off. However, the dirt is pretty absorbant, so I am going to leave the excess on so any places where the glue is on thicker will absorb up and give more irregularity to the surface.</div>
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<b>Step 12: Clean sweep</b><br />
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I took the bases outside for the next part, as the dirt is, oddly enough, quite dusty. I ran the airgun over them (I suppose blowing on them would work as well, though not as dignified), then used a huge soft paintbrush to dust any remaining dirt off the dudes. Don't worry about tiny patches, if there are any, where the dirt didn't adhere to the base; it is brown under there anyway, and it the next two steps, it can become a moot (that's a fun word that is even more fun when written) point anyway. I like plans where the minor stuff is corrected later on rather than taking the time now, and this plan meets that criteria.</div>
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<b>Step 13: Planting the undergrowth</b><br />
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Using an old brush, I applied the same glue mix from Step 11 to irregular patched on the base. The big patches are just painted on, while the little scattered ones are put on with almost a drybrush technique; just a little paint on the brush, lay it almost parallel to the base, and gently sweep/dab it on so it hits the raised areas only. You don't have to do that, but I kind of like the end result as it blends the entire base together even though I am only going for about 50% coverage with the green.<br />
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On at least half of the figures, paint glue at least halfway under them; it looks odd if they are all standing on bare patches of ground. Not necessarily unrealistic, but it just seems somehow off. Same for the turntable, but don't worry about the ground under the spokes, as it will be hard to see there anyway.</div>
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<b>Step 14: Flocking</b><br />
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Another easy step: take pinches of flock (I mix various colors of <a href="http://woodlandscenics.woodlandscenics.com/show/category/FineTurf" target="_blank">Woodland Scenics Fine Turf</a>) and drop it on the entire base. There are a 1.2 bazillion (I counted with The Google) manufacturers; however, if you do a mix of colors, do a bunch extra, and store it for later use. Even if, after the process of doing infantry bases, you plan to never ever ever again build anything but fully tankified forces...trust me and keep the mix. It can be crazy hard to match a custom blend later, even if you write down the proportions. Besides, somebody else might like the look and want to borrow it.</div>
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<b>Step 15: Tamping</b><br />
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Using the fluffy brush from Step 12, gently tamp the flock down so it embeds in the glue. Hold the brush parallel to the base for this, or it will shift the flock around and make it not stick as well, as well as getting a little clumpy. Let the glue dry fully before going on to the next step; doing all eight bases in sequence was enough time, unless you put the glue on quite thick or didn't thin it out enough. In either of those cases, let it sit overnight just in case.</div>
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<b>Step 16: Sweeping again</b><br />
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Back to the fluffy brush! Turn the base upside down over the container of flock, and tap it to remove any excess. Then, use the brush to make sure no flock is sticking to the crew.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMM8VtvtgGoL4LyydtQf7UanYA7bmUKhg9ym9_olfcyJlj_qT1bjhbH8nKodhhWVk7Mr1inRm-lEqjeFvi3MdY9R-gWBVK4xY4pR2L_72i5OcWWR7ya1N0Gk7LjPrpGsnpcchiXKds0L68/s1600/005-17+gun+placement.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="152" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMM8VtvtgGoL4LyydtQf7UanYA7bmUKhg9ym9_olfcyJlj_qT1bjhbH8nKodhhWVk7Mr1inRm-lEqjeFvi3MdY9R-gWBVK4xY4pR2L_72i5OcWWR7ya1N0Gk7LjPrpGsnpcchiXKds0L68/s200/005-17+gun+placement.JPG" width="200" /></a><b>Step 17: Gun placement</b><br />
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Easy step here. A small dot of superglue (remember, with cyanoacrylate glue, the thinner the layer the stronger the bond unless you are going to use an accelerator to cure it solid) under each tire, and a dab of the Gorilla Wood Glue under the trail (because the base where the trail sits is rough and porous, superglue won't work as well, and the Gorilla kicks as much butt as it's namesake).</div>
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While you can call the base done at this point, and it will look fine, I like to have some 3-D elements on the base. In this case, I went with Tall Prairie Tufts Late Summer, an excellent product by MiniNatur. It comes in an 8"x10" sheet, which is enough to last ages; I got mine from <a href="http://www.sceneryexpress.com/products.asp?dept=1217" target="_blank">Scenery Express</a>.<br />
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<b>Step 19: Finishing Steps</b><br />
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And now the home stretch! I like to paint the edge of the base, but with the basing material so dark, I didn't like the look of most of the typical colors. I tried a couple, then settled on a 50/50 mix of Vallejo Brown Leather and Vallejo Model Air Black. Using the airbrush color let me skip the step of thinning the paint (the Vallejo Model Color line is thicker than I like to paint with, so I normally thin it right in the bottle, but I also use the Brown Leather for drybrushing, so it is the original thickness), and I have a boatload of the black, so it was worth it to save a few seconds. Time becomes much more precious when it's past midnight, for some reason. Lastly, I hit it with a couple coats of matte varnish (I use Testor Dull Coat when I am going to do multiple matte coats, or Armory Matte if I only plan on a single coat).<br />
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Anyway, here's the final product: one of the eight tubes of MurderStonkReroll crazyness!<br />
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<b>Step 20: Shell types</b><br />
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For the dedicated among you, here is a sample of the shell types used. I went with the plain black anti-tank round, because I'm <strike>lazy</strike> busy, but you definitely need to go with the HE round and do all the scale lettering on the projectile.<br />
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And call me when you get out of the asylum. With new glasses.</div>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3388833086110706955.post-69897325460875635422012-05-02T16:19:00.000-07:002013-01-05T22:53:27.017-08:00British 25pdr Battery Part One: Artillery Crew<div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOF0nRfLiSdIjQseKR0EM8iuP6mbif9JwW8Dbp7UEIwy2JF2zeT72A7AiySIycbcP0pkANJ6l7L8gJNsBb9b7CH3XRkX4yGMrKk6S-Q1s8kzICbbJ24LEXb-kbT_hip9UIIRPvQ5lxBOJi/s1600/003a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="178" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOF0nRfLiSdIjQseKR0EM8iuP6mbif9JwW8Dbp7UEIwy2JF2zeT72A7AiySIycbcP0pkANJ6l7L8gJNsBb9b7CH3XRkX4yGMrKk6S-Q1s8kzICbbJ24LEXb-kbT_hip9UIIRPvQ5lxBOJi/s320/003a.jpg" width="320" /></a>To help a friend of mine get started in Flames of War, I am painting
some of the British minis I have had in various stages of assembly for <strike>about five years</strike>
a little while. Called around to find some folks willing to trade some primed American stuff for primed British, and off we go!<br />
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First up is a two-section battery of 25-pounder
artillery pieces and assorted staff elements. I decided to start with the arty crews, as they would be
the most time-consuming part of the unit. He is going for late-war Desert Rats, so brown and brown it is, with a little khaki thrown in for flavor. He will be using a maxed-out battery, so it will have eight crew teams, three command teams, two observer teams, and a staff team. There are associated vehicles, but I'll be doing those later, at the same time as the guns themselves.</div>
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<b>Step 1: Prep Work</b><br />
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First up, I cleaned the flash and mold lines off the minis. Since I will be using washes and inks, solid lines will really show up, so this step is important. I use a contact file (same ones you use for spark plugs) and a hobby knife; the file is mainly for the helmets, the knife is to scrape the seams.<br />
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Next up is a bath. I'm not sure what mold release Battlefront uses, but I clean everything before priming, and have never had a problem with paint coming off. It might not be necessary, but there is no kill like overkill! Anyway, I dunked them in Simple Green, then held about ten at a time in my palm while I hit them with a fingernail brush. Rinsed in warm water, set aside to dry, then did the next batch.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjspeLi1zKRjg5m-GXrgAsPE7Yxj95eDMmFbPRny5Vn_ihI9wmbnX0RdoWtEM6C3Uq8LN34L0rBQicm3ZLt1an3mm0Nh9KZnU9IcamoXuloaGb_zN39w27jXpcTBjxzpIT6seqL6jXIIs4L/s1600/003b+primed.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="91" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjspeLi1zKRjg5m-GXrgAsPE7Yxj95eDMmFbPRny5Vn_ihI9wmbnX0RdoWtEM6C3Uq8LN34L0rBQicm3ZLt1an3mm0Nh9KZnU9IcamoXuloaGb_zN39w27jXpcTBjxzpIT6seqL6jXIIs4L/s320/003b+primed.JPG" width="320" /></a><b>Step 2: Grouping and Priming</b><br />
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After they finished drying, I grouped them by pose and used wood glue to stick them on boards for priming. By having the various poses together and aligned, it lets you speed up the painting process as you are repeating the same brush strokes four to eight times, and when you realize you missed particular parts or a piece of kit, you can check the same areas on the other like poses. Gluing them to a board gives you something to hold onto other than the fig, and gives easy access to all parts of the minis.<br />
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<i>related note 2a: waterproof Gorilla Wood Glue rocks! It holds the figs strongly to the board, but pops off cleanly when it's time to dismount them without leaving clue residue on the fig.</i></div>
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<i>related note 2b: I use 3"x7" craft boards from Michael's, with a small
crosspiece glued to the bottom so they stand up by themselves.</i></div>
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<b>Step 3: Tops and Bottoms</b><br />
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Normally, I would do the belts and web gear first, but I had no clue where my Khaki was and I was in a painting mood, so I decided to drive on. For the shirts and pants, I used Vallejo English Uniform thinned six drops paint to one drop thinner. This acts similar to a wash, but the "faded" look will be corrected in the final stage when I give it an ink bath. If you get a little sloppy and paint outside the lines, no big deal...with the order I used, you can clean up as you go on to the next step. The color is a little darker than the photo shows, but close enough.<br />
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<i>related note 3a: to thin my paint, I use half distilled water and half Future Floor Wax, then add a few drops of flow improver and drying retarder (both by Golden). The Future is basically an acrylic base, just like the paint medium, so it thins without separation and adds a toughness to the paint. And, as a bonus, it makes your paint smell better. I'm not a brush licker, though, so I can't attest to the effect on taste, but I'm going to go out on a limb and recommend you don't put on your tongue what most people put on their floor.</i><br />
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<b>Step 4: Khaki</b><br />
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<i>Note: the color is off, as I was shooting under fluorescent lights, but close enough...</i><br />
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Normally at this point the belts would have been done as the first paint step, but oh well. I found my Vallejo Khaki and hit all the web gear, belts, and gators. The color looked too similar to the brown, though, so I lightened it up with a little white mixed in. Don't worry if the khaki on the gators slops onto the boots a little, as they will be painted black and will cover fine. Be careful with the belts, though, because touch-up is a pain; this is why if I was more patient, I would have waited to find my Khaki before doing the browns in Step 3.<br />
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<i>related note 4a: the original khaki might have been a more accurate color, but for a 15mm figure at tabletop distance, I wanted a little contrast to make the details stand out more, so I used a 4:1 ratio of Khaki to White. Looks fine in a black-and-white photo...</i><br />
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<b>Step 5: Boots and Q-Tips</b><br />
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For the boots and rammer tips, I used Vallejo German Grey, which is dark enough to be almost black. Pure black rarely looks right at this scale, and I will be weathering them up anyway in later steps. After the boots are done, use a dark brown and paint the tops of the bases; this will save time when we put the dudes on the bases, as we won't have to worry about perfect coverage with out basing material.<br />
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<i>related note 5a: the rammers make their first appearance in the Step 6 photo; it's the tool the Number 2 crewman uses to advance the shell into the breech.</i><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhku19RA6Kfrg0X2fJmRgJCww2e8TUpjtRyiaKVjH5kal2VvcLTnPSvtZQDkSHvZfthLRgL5YShU-JWdjr56H3F_gvtjLeN2X7Xkf2MxU4_9m74Ex9KK6IWhrFwcvrrct1lcCQAeluuEzeH/s1600/003f+helmets.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="113" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhku19RA6Kfrg0X2fJmRgJCww2e8TUpjtRyiaKVjH5kal2VvcLTnPSvtZQDkSHvZfthLRgL5YShU-JWdjr56H3F_gvtjLeN2X7Xkf2MxU4_9m74Ex9KK6IWhrFwcvrrct1lcCQAeluuEzeH/s320/003f+helmets.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<b>Step 6: Headgear</b><br />
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The officers get theirs in Vallejo English Uniform, the helmets are in Vallejo Russian Uniform. I would normally just paint the underside of the headgear, since the faces get painted in the next step, but I had plenty of the paint on the palette so I went ahead and did the tops as well. The very top of the model is normally the very last painting step, as it is the part most likely to get scuffed during the painting process, but I went ahead and knocked it out. Saves a drop or two, I suppose...<br />
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<i>related note 6a: I have never actually used Russian Uniform on anything Russian...</i>go figure.</div>
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<b>Step 7: Gimme some skin</b><br />
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Easy step. I went with Vallejo Basic Skintone, even though it is a little light and fresh. I will be using a shader later on, so it will come out all right.</div>
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<b>Step 8: Rammer staves</b><br />
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Another straightforward step; I used Vallejo Goldenbrown. Not the historically accurate color, but the correct ones were too close to the uniform, so I applied some artistic license and went with a lighter shade.<br />
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<b>Step 9: Shellshocked</b><br />
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The actual shells were an alloy rather than pure brass, so were a lot less "brassy", but I wanted more contrast, so I used Vallejo Brass. The shading later on will tone down the brightness a notch or two. Hit the tip with Vallejo German Grey (they were actually black, but as discussed earlier, pure black looks odd on minis at this scale unless you are going to do highlighting, which I am not) and you are done.</div>
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<b>Step 10: Time for a haircut</b><br />
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The officers are the only ones with hair showing, to this is a quick step. Any color will do, but I would avoid medium brown as it blends with the uniform. A couple have mustaches (or maybe Mick Jager lips, hard to tell at 15mm scale...), so don't forget to paint those as well.</div>
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<b>Step 11: Shady dealings</b><br />
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Shading is one of the most important steps. Because I have been using thinned paint over a white primer, the colors are a little washed out. Army Painter Strong Tone Quickshade shares properties of both a wash (color flows into recesses and applies a light filter) and an ink (deepens the tone of colors and gives it depth) is the perfect solution to both. It won't take care of the lining qualities as well as either a straight wash or a straight ink, but at this scale and to keep the speed up, it is a reasonable compromise.<br />
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Some folks just dip the entire mini in then shake off the excess, but I like to brush it on. The two dudes on the right have received their shade, though I hadn't wicked off the excess (mainly at the bottom) with a dry brush yet.</div>
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<b>Step 12: Seal the deal</b><br />
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That's it! Hit them with a light spray of matte varnish to seal them, and we're ready to get the dudes on their bases.
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3388833086110706955.post-73711827453688987702012-04-10T22:32:00.005-07:002013-01-05T22:51:16.160-08:00Flames of War in the South Puget Sound area<div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">So, we have some stuff to put On The Table Top. Now we need a tabletop!<br />
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I keep going through the same routine every time I road-trip in the local area...walk out the door, run back inside to Google "game stores" near the destination while the car warms up, then head out. To shorten that process, I figured I would have some results staged in advance. Here are some of the stores within an hour or two of Lacey, WA:<br />
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<a name='more'></a></div><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"></div><hr color="#000000" size="1" width="100%" /><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br />
<b>Olympic Cards and Comics</b></div><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">4230 Pacific Ave</div><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Lacey, WA 98503</div><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">(360) 459-7721<br />
(Flames of War is played on Thursday evenings) </div><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br />
</div><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><b>The Game Matrix </b></div><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">8610 South Tacoma Way</div><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Lakewood, WA 98499</div><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">(253) 583-9708<br />
(Flames of War is mainly played on Sunday afternoons. They also have the most complete selection of Flames minis I have seen on the West Coast.) </div><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br />
</div><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><b>Borderlands Games</b></div><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">546 High St NE</div><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Salem, OR 97301</div><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">(503) 485-2554<br />
(They run tournaments, but I haven't been to their Flames night...anybody have some info?)</div><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br />
</div><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><b>Guardian Games</b></div><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">303 SE 3rd Ave </div><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Portland, OR 97214</div><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">(503) 238-4000<br />
(Flames of War league running Thursday evenings, with cumulative monthly prizes.) </div><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br />
</div><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><b>The Panzer Depot</b></div><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">11232 120th Ave NE #112</div><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Kirkland, WA 98033</div><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">(425) 823-8201<br />
(Flames of War is played on Thursday evenings and Saturday afternoons)</div><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"></div><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"></div><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br />
<b>Blitz Hobby</b><br />
620 S Tower Ave<br />
Centralia, WA 98531<br />
(360) 464-2352<br />
(Not sure about a game night. They have an okay Flames selection...not all the choices, but what they have, they have enough of to field a full unit. It is primarily a hobby store, so lots of cool supplies.)<br />
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If you know of any others, add them in the comments, and I'll update the list!</div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3388833086110706955.post-29283558042048899012012-04-10T21:48:00.008-07:002013-01-05T22:50:48.985-08:00Spray-painting invasion stripes<div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; text-align: center;"></div><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; text-align: center;"><tbody>
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<tr style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">L4 AOP w/ Invasion Stripes</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Used by US forces in the latter part of WWII primarily as an artillery spotter, the L4 Grasshopper Aerial Observation Post was a nifty addition to the arsenal. Google it for some additional coolness...some nutso pilots decided to arm them with bazookas and go into ground-attack mode!</div><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br />
</div><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Now, you could paint it by hand, but I'm going to use some masking techniques and spray paint to get a Grasshopper AOP on the table.</div><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjT7N0n3syckjrbYAMP2a7y008JSgbJPAnxA9Gph-HyRpw5P7qB6cnn9OnXK6AwbBXnS3zd4_YZ9ZKnjD3r-vUEosJHzhPE2r2_jmqWg3FJ114HNELbbURBz0DjXXsO9QU7IExlmuAV6_Zd/s1600/DSCN0654.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="291" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjT7N0n3syckjrbYAMP2a7y008JSgbJPAnxA9Gph-HyRpw5P7qB6cnn9OnXK6AwbBXnS3zd4_YZ9ZKnjD3r-vUEosJHzhPE2r2_jmqWg3FJ114HNELbbURBz0DjXXsO9QU7IExlmuAV6_Zd/s320/DSCN0654.JPG" width="320" /></a><b>Step 1: Initial Masking</b></div><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br />
</div><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Starting with a primed plane, I used painter's tape (the same blue stuff you use to mask walls for painting) to mask it off. You can use high-tech frisket masking materiels, but let's go the cheap-and-easy route.<br />
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The outside tape is even with where the wing strut attaches to the wing (not visible in this photo, but you can see it in the photo at the top of the page), and the inside tape is 5/8" in. There will be five stripes, and it's easy to measure 1/8" intervals. To burnish the tape for a better seal, use something to rub the edge of the tape to it seals tight to the model. I went high-tech and used the flat part of my thumbnail.<br />
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<i>Related paint note: I used War Painter US Armor Spray Paint to prime and base-coat the plane. Good stuff, though a little pricey. Made by the same folks who make Army Painter, though the nozzle is different. But that's a separate subject, so back to the invasion stripes...</i> </div><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiELFotFY2lrGRP2jgvxCDe8ymn9OwuRr2EZgWVeSa7hlwxWrcU-qib26h1jC7ummk3OQEhnyl2YM9UbILDPwzVSDc2wKt_XZQVjZsX0AqexNNabMQkT7xOQBI3Iw2UOPVuVsqi1a7Aen9Y/s1600/DSCN0658.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="306" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiELFotFY2lrGRP2jgvxCDe8ymn9OwuRr2EZgWVeSa7hlwxWrcU-qib26h1jC7ummk3OQEhnyl2YM9UbILDPwzVSDc2wKt_XZQVjZsX0AqexNNabMQkT7xOQBI3Iw2UOPVuVsqi1a7Aen9Y/s320/DSCN0658.JPG" width="320" /></a><b>Step 2: Spray Sealing</b></div><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"> </div><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Next up, spray the wing with the same paint as the base coat. Since our cheap masking tape won't get a great seal, this step will make sure that whatever paint leaks under the edge of the tape is the same color as the base coat, so we won't have to touch it up later. At the same time, it will make for a better seal, so later coats won't leak under the tape. Let it dry thoroughly before the next step, or the white will bleed under and make a mess, as well as make the tape take paint off when we remove the mask.</div><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuV5L2EMpJeMZnpYAnHs93FI6YLZr_lBgmRCv7i-4fyPHICAra_WByeCbpufW7KAWaLIm_8oADMzDItEApyqqWiN4BLo856Z-GcEjolwH-etNBNzVBQyYmfTf6Qp1_v0Z1rljPz_qeQ2df/s1600/DSCN0660.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="301" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuV5L2EMpJeMZnpYAnHs93FI6YLZr_lBgmRCv7i-4fyPHICAra_WByeCbpufW7KAWaLIm_8oADMzDItEApyqqWiN4BLo856Z-GcEjolwH-etNBNzVBQyYmfTf6Qp1_v0Z1rljPz_qeQ2df/s320/DSCN0660.JPG" width="320" /></a><b>Step 3: White Layer</b></div><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br />
</div><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">No rocket science here...spray the white on. Use multiple light coats, rather than a heavy coat, so the paint won't peel up when we remove the mask or have a thick-looking layer.</div><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br />
</div><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><i>Related paint note: I like DupliColor Sandable Automotive Primer, as you get great coverage and adjustable spray patterns. I have never had a bad can, and have had great results in a variety of temperature/humidity ranges. Armory Flat White Primer is another good paint, with a cool bottle and less smell than any other primer I have used.<span class="main-title" itemprop="name"></span></i></div><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br />
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<b>Step 4: Add stripes</b></div><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br />
</div><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">No spiffy pictures here, as it is rinse-and-repeat from here out. I'll split step 4 into two options: 4a if you continue to use masking tape, or as an alternative, 4b if you want to spend another $3-6 to save a little time.</div><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br />
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<b>Step 4a: Striping with Masking Tape</b></div><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br />
</div><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Reminder: use several light coats rather than one heavy coat, and let it dry between steps.</div><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br />
</div><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">4a1: Move your outer and inner masks 1/8" in. They should now be 3/8" apart.</div><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">4a2: Spray white. (This seals it like you did in Step 2).</div><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">4a3: Spray the black.</div><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">4a4: Move the outer and inner masks another 1/8" in; they should now be 1/8" apart.</div><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">4a5: Spray black to seal the edges, let it dry</div><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">4a6: Spray your final white stripe.<br />
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You can now skip to Step 5...or read on. </div><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjapsOJu3ScaGxeTU1XcWQGfXwMLBegDQioK69GL5Qmw5SnQmDGO1BdXIWUUXFyELEUaGZZvaLrNjlYxt4_waHrDM-fd4fe1ogOnsrWHCphOG3cJEcyNKmEryVHLrziT6oRYpKOfGciLjps/s1600/art+tape.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjapsOJu3ScaGxeTU1XcWQGfXwMLBegDQioK69GL5Qmw5SnQmDGO1BdXIWUUXFyELEUaGZZvaLrNjlYxt4_waHrDM-fd4fe1ogOnsrWHCphOG3cJEcyNKmEryVHLrziT6oRYpKOfGciLjps/s320/art+tape.jpg" width="320" /></a><b>Step 4b: Striping with Art Tape</b></div><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br />
</div><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">If you want to save a little hassle by spending a couple bucks, you can get a roll of 1/8" art tape. The picture on the right is a $6 roll of the good stuff, which seals well, or you can spend $3 for a roll of art tape at Office Depot / Office Max / Office Whatever. If you go the cheap route, get the crepe type rather than the glossy stuff...it will seal better.</div><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br />
</div><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Note: the "for curves" part is important, as it means the tape is softer, so will get a better seal. The glossy stuff from Office Depot is harder, so tends to lift up a bit and cause more leakage than the sealing spray can handle.</div><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"></div><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br />
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</div><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">4b1: Add a tape strip to the inner and outer edges. The strips should now be 3/8" apart.<b><br />
</b></div><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">4b2: Add a strip to the center. There should now be two 1/8" gaps on each wing.<br />
4b3: Spray white. (This seals it like you did in Step 2).</div><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">4b4: Spray the black.</div><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">There we go, saved two steps by using the artist tape...</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhe-8Jz2t3P68jRNQHY1nvbgnYz596BoosFejHSLI6Y-EMJzfNqaeBReh3yQG075lyCR7tTsIyaHmlE2mWJ8wJWwONEreyMs6ttinTpEXkm20zXCPGzQe-9CqKBRc1AkxFQJi_4-py3Vcgx/s1600/DSCN0673.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="194" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhe-8Jz2t3P68jRNQHY1nvbgnYz596BoosFejHSLI6Y-EMJzfNqaeBReh3yQG075lyCR7tTsIyaHmlE2mWJ8wJWwONEreyMs6ttinTpEXkm20zXCPGzQe-9CqKBRc1AkxFQJi_4-py3Vcgx/s320/DSCN0673.JPG" width="320" /></a><b>Step 5: The Reveal</b></div><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br />
</div><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Remove the tape, and we're done! Voila...ready for the tabletop. </div><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br />
</div><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><i>Note: you get much better results if you study some video of Dr Frankenstein-removing-the-gauze to get the proper tape-removal technique.</i></div><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br />
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<b>Step 6: Fuselage Stripes</b></div><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br />
</div><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Okay, not quite done. Repeat the same steps to add fuselage stripes, and we will be done for real. The only change is to narrow the stripes if necessary so they fit the smaller area. Decals can be added, but as I don't have the right ones, that will get done another day.</div><hr color="#000000" size="1" width="100%" />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3388833086110706955.post-13792311720000384322012-03-06T21:24:00.007-08:002013-01-06T00:05:58.750-08:00Plastic Soldier Company T-34 conversion: 76mm to 57mm<div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
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The Plastic Soldier Company T-34 box comes with the turret and barrel for both the 85mm and 76mm versions; I needed the 57mm version, so time for a scratch-build! I did not go for exact scale conversion, just a piece of tubing I had on hand that fell between the 76mm barrel size and the 85mm so you can tell the difference on the tabletop (yes, it seems odd that the smaller shell size had a larger barrel, but I believe the barrel was thicker to handle the higher pressure and velocity of the 57mm round).<br />
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<b>Step 01: nix the 76mm barrel</b></div>
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Cut straight across the barrel, as you will need to drill into the current housing. I used a pair of sprue cutters, but an X-acto will do. File the barrel stub flat after you cut, but leave the little triangular piece of barrel intact, as it will be a reference point in step 02. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivc-Ksj2yW-1sAh-O9Q-20-LfPIbcJA8be5-2Yln3L1rURqjBuy5IeDaYYv6WrbvT2rKwlPbcFHneSDCNbts7KLpYIE1qJ0bXSaXxLtknoViV4wXfeyklZCi7p8n_Aku6YunzLizPdN28B/s1600/psc+t34+57+01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="153" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivc-Ksj2yW-1sAh-O9Q-20-LfPIbcJA8be5-2Yln3L1rURqjBuy5IeDaYYv6WrbvT2rKwlPbcFHneSDCNbts7KLpYIE1qJ0bXSaXxLtknoViV4wXfeyklZCi7p8n_Aku6YunzLizPdN28B/s320/psc+t34+57+01.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<b>Step 02: Drilling</b></div>
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Next up is to drill the housing, but because of the small size, you need to make a pilot indention in the barrel stub. Once you are centered on the barrel stub, pivot your pointy tool around to make the hole big enough to take the drill bit.<br />
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(I have a tool designed to scribe plastic, but a nail filed to a sharp point will do just fine. Whatever you use, it just needs to be sharp, so if you are off center, you can re-spike it in a better position.) </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsyumOyZbyWYIfCwwcZ28SSv_RiHQWocjI9hQx9l3R0vdHzpnLnSyO6g_jOe19jcCNbfzPh13HrLHxLZel6OkqP2lDnhmiBwTufUjdFtt6ksyKwOQoeHnf8FthfMltIynMNuPl6x8SVcq9/s1600/psc+t34+57+02a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="223" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsyumOyZbyWYIfCwwcZ28SSv_RiHQWocjI9hQx9l3R0vdHzpnLnSyO6g_jOe19jcCNbfzPh13HrLHxLZel6OkqP2lDnhmiBwTufUjdFtt6ksyKwOQoeHnf8FthfMltIynMNuPl6x8SVcq9/s320/psc+t34+57+02a.jpg" width="320" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdvlketvmQIP3ZcHyS5V16Tx3iqrl2xmp71mpP1-abwdQ_b17yaPV__DAHI-nx5pbKH9M3aD144ugk9gNQRPMAnxQW93ezndjwyXovgR3R92KBBMIp_9H365Vo8-0CJHnHknAne_6_spsb/s1600/psc+t34+57+02b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="189" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdvlketvmQIP3ZcHyS5V16Tx3iqrl2xmp71mpP1-abwdQ_b17yaPV__DAHI-nx5pbKH9M3aD144ugk9gNQRPMAnxQW93ezndjwyXovgR3R92KBBMIp_9H365Vo8-0CJHnHknAne_6_spsb/s320/psc+t34+57+02b.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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And then the drilling. You will be pinning the new barrel in place, so you need to drill almost all the way through the piece. Use a drill bit the same size as the pin you will use. After you drill the pinning hole out, remove the triangular scrap of leftover barrel.</div>
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<b>Step 03: Pinning</b></div>
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Dip your pin (I used a 1/2" piece of paper clip, as it exactly fit the inside of my tubing) in a small puddle of super glue (so you don't get too much on it) then stick it into the hole; be careful not to let it go all the way through, but go as deep as you can. Then, bend the pin (if necessary) so it is aligned the same way the original barrel was.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhScOreVaFfVwutIqXvLECpUjPTrbkDJmbMsYXsPMhOIFH8Wp87Duo3EvtTamKYXjA5om0hrD2xq_OIVU8Z4UBokY9ZEN3yfOpTv0grcRY6EwQqaLrDKW01Ea41MkytMKiKjTWG9iacUvCA/s1600/psc+t34+57+04.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="217" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhScOreVaFfVwutIqXvLECpUjPTrbkDJmbMsYXsPMhOIFH8Wp87Duo3EvtTamKYXjA5om0hrD2xq_OIVU8Z4UBokY9ZEN3yfOpTv0grcRY6EwQqaLrDKW01Ea41MkytMKiKjTWG9iacUvCA/s320/psc+t34+57+04.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Note: when you bend the pin, hold the pliers right up against the plastic, not like the picture shows; I backed it off for photo-taking.</div>
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<b>Step 04: Barrel fabrication and attachment</b></div>
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Cut a piece of 1/16" aluminum tubing to 7/8", then file one end to an angle that matches the plastic. Test fit the angle, then dip the angled end in your puddle of superglue and slide it onto the pin until it is flush with the plastic. If you need any final adjustments to line up the barrel, do it before the superglue dries!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgP5TtIZaJONkblHrHed-95-PlFcswcFkwx3L5ObYNHPKxK8F-mQH_kbSDbm9qh9w5C0K_CA8H9_YakGaPX-MphBv5kQkmu8BNXQJol7jCZ18HWT4Bhu58Ve4OJsqRMl7JWRjGuz_-JBHDk/s1600/psc+t34+57+05.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="158" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgP5TtIZaJONkblHrHed-95-PlFcswcFkwx3L5ObYNHPKxK8F-mQH_kbSDbm9qh9w5C0K_CA8H9_YakGaPX-MphBv5kQkmu8BNXQJol7jCZ18HWT4Bhu58Ve4OJsqRMl7JWRjGuz_-JBHDk/s320/psc+t34+57+05.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<b>Step 05: final assembly</b></div>
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Glue the barrel assembly onto the turret, and you are good to go!</div>
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<b>Finished Product</b></div>
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For comparison purposes, here is a family portrait. From top to bottom, the 76mm, 57mm, and 85mm versions. The 76 and 57 share a turret, the 85 had a larger one. Both turrets come with the kit.</div>
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Now, go get it on the table top!</div>
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